Benigno Numine (official motto of The City of Pittsburgh)
For some reason my girlfriend’s writers conference
is in pittsburgh this year, so, with google map result
for bars of pittsburgh printed out, I walk
trying to get a feel for this erstwhile iron town
on my first of five hotel days’ free
beginning downtown at The Yard, a brick-walled
‘burgher’ and sports bar of no interest. I have 2 pints
and cross the fort pitt bridge and prized confluence
to scour the southside’s famous strip of saloons
on carson street named for an inurned environmentalist,
but am disappointed with Urban Tap’s weak well drinks and
clientele of mere kids dressed like kindergarteners,
and Jack’s, Foxtail and The Flats because they’re not open yet
though its already noon
Soon discovery a dr. mcgillicuddy’s chalk sign
outside an unnamed establishment and find,
after my eyes adjust to the dark, empty red leather booths
with black ashtrays sliced for smokes – you know the kind –
and a jukebox next to a cigarette machine like a time-warp
and a bar as long as I’ve ever seen, two veteran drunks
discussing american presidents from johnson on:
“asshole” “yup”
“asshole” “indeed”
“asshole” “yes sir”
“asshole” “that’s right”
“asshole” “big one”
“asshole” “CIA asshole”
“asshole” “a-hole”
“asshole” “asshole sonny boy”
“asshole” “asshole got no color”
“asshole” “traitor asshole”
“asshole” “stinky old asshole”
I have 3 sutter chardonnays and take the bartender’s directions
to the blue bridge, make a left at the county jail,
stay on the boulevard of allies which will lead to The Eagle,
a fried chicken place with local brews I should try
Sounds easy, but after turning at the landmark (newly released inmate
asleep on the lawn) I get lost navigating detours around
the destruction site of a defunct shopping mall, wind up traversing
andy warhol bridge, take in the revitalized allegany river
once clogged with coal boats, drop a hundred bucks
for steak-on-a-stone and 4 penn hazy’s at Northshore Tavern
in the five o’clock shadow of heinz stadium
then, staggering now, make my way over saint roberto clemente bridge
back toward downtown and destination Rebel Bar
where along the way I trip on one of pittsburgh’s high curbs,
scrape my palms bloody on broken glass, getting a feel for the city
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